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日出蒲甘的美色震撼
发布时间:2013-02-28 0:28:22 阅读:2497

  蒲甘位于缅甸中部,历史上曾是缅甸蒲甘王朝的首都。虔诚的国王以小乘佛教为国教,在富饶的依洛瓦底江边,建造佛塔及寺庙,美和伟大就这样日渐形成。时光在悄悄流逝,如今蒲甘的王城早已被岁月的风尘淹没,只剩下那2000多座宝塔和寺庙,向世人透露着当年蒲甘王朝的辉煌。它们静静地依傍着缓缓流淌的依洛瓦底江,默默矗立在丘陵起伏的谷地,每天都挺拔起骄傲的身姿,迎着冉冉上升的朝阳,又在夜幕的笼罩下沉沉睡去。就这样日复一日,年复一年……
 
  蒲甘的日出是东南亚最华美的日出,任何人都不应该错过。凌晨,我们骑车出发,去追逐日出。天空还是鱼肚白,两岸都是安静的佛塔,像入定的老僧。较大的佛塔,被晨曦照着,宁静而且温暖。抵达旅行社推荐的“日出佛塔”,爬上佛塔的最高处,天边开始露出曙光,虽然云层遮住了太阳,但是漏出的阳光还是给蒲甘镶上了一层金边,天地之间,勾勒出蒲甘佛塔的优美曲线。太阳渐渐升起,周围茂密的森林,湛蓝色的天空,纯白剔透的白云,所有这些都把蒲甘衬托得卓尔不凡。阳光慢慢地洒在这块多难的土地上,直到每一座佛塔,都被阳光点燃起来,游客才愿意收拾起惊叹,等待同样动人的日落。初识蒲甘我就已经被它的美色震撼。
 
  自公元11世纪到13世纪,蒲甘先后建造的佛塔达万余座,被称为“万塔之城”。建筑精巧、风格各异的佛塔遍布城内城外,有的洁白素雅、朴素大方,有的金光闪闪、雍容华贵。佛塔外形也是千姿百态,方形、圆形、扁形、条形……有的像宫殿,有的似城堡,有的如石窟。塔顶的华盖上悬挂着铜铃、银铃,微风吹动,发出清脆的响声,犹如一曲美妙的乐章。塔内的佛像或坐、或立、或躺、或卧,千姿百态,形象各异;有的顶天立地、高约数丈,有的精巧纤纤、高不盈余;这些佛像的表情逼真细腻,惟妙惟肖,佛塔内的浮雕壁画,更是技艺精湛,独具匠心。因此,蒲甘被誉为东方佛教艺术的宝库,可谓名至实归。
 
  沐浴着暖暖的阳光,马车在古塔间穿梭,犹如行走在历史的长河。天空蓝的静止了,阳光也静止了,皮肤与千年古塔一起被炙烤着。看见蒲甘这样的古迹遗址,还是忍不住要惊叹,那是一种怎样的力量和魄力,成就了永远的伟大。
 
  建于公元1057年的瑞西光塔是蒲甘最著名的佛塔之一,甬道上的拱券和穹隆的拱顶描绘着成片的壁画,石青、石绿、赭色排列出连续的花纹,矿物质的颜料有如此的抗衰老能力,色泽依旧,历久弥新。大殿中心四尊面目慈祥佛像,各自面朝一方背壁而立,保佑着一方平安。温柔的夕阳给塔身抹上了一缕金黄,和中国的秦砖汉瓦那种宁静肃穆的青冷色调相比,这些红砖建筑多了几分亲近和暖意。站在60多米高的佛塔顶端,饱览“万塔之城”的壮观景象:红土、荒野、古塔、马车……华美而苍凉。


 

落日时分的蒲甘是肃穆的,没了早前游人如织的景象,安静极了。悠然地坐在千年前的石块上,微风吹拂,这时的蒲甘异常凄美。极目远眺,景色令人陶醉。只见广阔的绿色原野上,伊洛瓦底江弯弯曲曲,宛若长蛇在附近游过,河水反照出夕阳的光辉。
 
  黄昏时的蒲甘异常美丽,成千上万的佛塔都涂上了一层余晖,在绿色的原野上留下一道长长的影子。渐渐地,天空的彩云转成红色,天地间都笼罩在晚霞绚丽的色彩当中。远处的白云在看似凝固中变幻着,斜阳突然发出耀眼的光芒,剪影中,蒲甘的四周都被镀上了层层金边。最后,落霞于血红中划过一缕紫色,千年的蒲甘隐没在其中。日出日落,斗转星移,只有岁月和静静的蒲甘在向我们诉说着永恒。能看到这样的美景,便不枉蒲甘之行了。
 
  美丽在这片土地上盛开,对宗教虔诚的国王千年前成就了今天的伟大。美丽又在这片土地被遗忘,只剩下2000多座古塔。可古塔苍老的姿态,在荒草里别样端庄。只一眼,今生难忘。
 
  【旅游提示】
 
  前往蒲甘的方式
 
  飞机:游客都是先抵达首都仰光,再前往其他城市。搭乘内陆班机是游览缅甸最快速、最舒适,也最昂贵的方式,并且在缅甸的各个城市都有班机飞往蒲甘。国营的缅甸航空在国际上的安全纪录很差,较值得信赖的是私营的仰光航空和曼德勒航空。
 
  游览蒲甘的方式
 
  马车:乘马车游蒲甘是最浪漫的游览方式,仿佛回到了千年前的生活方式。这种方式也最方便,因为马车夫会帮你安排景点。一天约6美元,可坐4人,分担费用,其实十分划算。
 
  自行车:旅社都有自行车出租,1美元一天,自由自在。冲下斜坡,快速穿梭在巨型仙人掌之间,肯定比乘任何过山车还来得惊险。不过,骑自行车要考验体力,因为一旦陷入沙地,就会变得英雄无用武之地了。
 
  住宿
 
  蒲甘北面8公里处的良乌镇是蒲甘的交通枢纽和游客集散地,几条小街集中了许多廉价旅馆和各种餐馆。蒲甘古城里唯一的旅馆,背靠古塔,前依伊洛瓦底江,江边入夜,每每有捉鱼的小船悄无声息地从水草中驶过,这里是连画都不及它美的地方。房间内一切家具陈设是缅甸特产的柚木,名贵又朴素,30美元一晚,不住是极大的遗憾。

 
 

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